Ramadan in Jerusalem

My high-school friend Murray is currently studying in Jerusalem, and occasionally sends back missives about his studies, life in Israel, and so forth. Something about this one said post me, and with his blessing (so to speak) I’m doing so here.

I’m just gotten in from a walk up the street. For the last hour or so, I’ve been hearing the sound of loud chanting, and so I thought I would just wander down the block, to see what was happening. As you can imagine, emotions are running very high here–it is the last night of Ramadan, and everyone here is very conscious of the imminence of an announcement about Arafat’s death–some are predicting a funeral as soon as tomorrow, or perhaps on Friday (in Egypt?), despite all of the assertions that he is stable. Anyhow, as I arrived at the end of the street, I encountered a large parade (several hundred people) marching down the street toward the Damascus Gate, all shouting Arafat’s name, carrying large posters of him, candles and Palestinian flags. They all moved down toward the Damascus Gate, where a large crowd had already gathered, and which seems to be a vigil-demonstration of sorts–candles, chanting, at least some tears that I could see. It’s a very strange scene–all the local shops are open late for the last night of Ramadan, and there are strings of holiday lights strung across the Damascus Gate plaza, with people selling coffee and sweets. There are also lots of posters of Arafat everywhere. As I walked back to the Ecole, I met several dozen people, all moving in the direction of the Damascus Gate. There is a real electricity in the air, as if something big is about to happen very soon–whether that will turn out to be the news of Arafat’s death remains to be seen. There is also a very strong police presence around the Damascus Gate.

It’s getting late, and I’ll be heading off to bed shortly, but there is a definite sense of expectation (of the inevitable?), and I wouldn’t be surprised if tonight (or early tomorrow our time) brings the long-expected news that Arafat has died in Paris. It will be interesting to see what reaction that news will provoke here in East Jerusalem. I continue to pray for peace and a smooth transition to a new leadership–please keep this situation in your prayers as well, and if anything should change, I’ll let you know.

Stay safe, Murray. Our thoughts are with you as always.

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